Saturday, March 5, 2011








Eight people, eight mules, two horses, and one dog made the trip up the mountain. Israel (a bighorn sheep biologist), Javier (an Argentinian photographer), and I walked. Franco (our guide), his wife Narda, Don Chito (who owned the mules), Don Chito’s assistant, Aurora (my Mexican adviser), and one of Aurora’s students rode the mules and horses. The rest of the mules packed all the gear and food. Pobrecitas!!! It was a hell of a trip- about 8 miles straight up, a 1900 meter or almost 6000 foot gain. The trail ascended at at least a 45-degree angle the entire time. It was insane! I thought I was going to die. I had to ride the mules a few times for sure. We had also left fairly late in the morning so the sun was beating down something ferocious.


Cali had a hard time of it, with the hot soil and sun, and I think that the next time I’ll leave her at home for this trip. Or leave way earlier in the day. She was also scared to death of the mules and wouldn’t go near them, so when I was riding she sort of took off into the brush. Scared the hell out of me! I had to get down off my mule and call for her for awhile but she showed up eventually, a little panicked but unhurt, and then I had to walk with her. Poor girl. Everyone called her fresa, which translates as ‘strawberry’ and basically means ‘city girl’.


The camp was very rustic, as expected. There a handful of men who stay up at the camp to clear fire breaks and keep the trails clean. They live in a wood and stone structure with a palapa roof, and sleep inside like sardines, with their sleeping bags lined up next to each other. Many of these laborers are young guys just working a job, and a few are ranchers who are working for extra income (nobody gets rich off of ranching around here, it seems).


There was also a large open-air kitchen structure with a shingled roof and wood-fed stoves. Meals were cooked here and at a fire pit off to the side. Luis, our camp cook, made some hearty meals! Eggs and ham and beans for breakfast, quesadillas or machaca (dried beef) burritos for lunch, and dinner varied. The first night Aurora cooked up some top sirloin! We were spoiled with that one, but I gotta tell you it hit the spot after that climb.




We slept in tents in an open area near the kitchen. It was cold up there but not as cold as I expected. My zero-degree bag was actually a little warm, especially with Cali sleeping right. on. top. of me.

The higher altitudes of the Reserve are made of pine-oak forests, which are so strange to see in this part of Mexico. Stranger still are the palms and cactus between the pines and oaks! It’s beautiful up there, and reminds me quite a bit of where I grew up.


The first night I helped Israel set up some cameras to catch those nasty feral pigs in the act of scavenging and destruction. We talked about setting up some cameras for puma as well, and got some tips from the ranchers on a place where they think some pumas travel. The rest of the time I spent just showing my face and talking to the workers, and trying to get into the habit of constantly writing field notes. A couple of the ranchers were telling stories about puma attacking pet dogs and mules (some of these stories I’d heard before in other areas), but all agreed that there weren’t very many puma left in the Reserve. It will be an interesting place to collect data, which I’m guessing I’ll be able to do next month.



The walk down was much easier but just as hot. Whereas the trip up took about eight hours, the trip down took about four and a half. My toenails hurt like I can’t even tell you, and I actually got a blister UNDER my big toenail. It wasn’t that fun to drain it, let me tell you, and I still think it’s going to fall off. Gross!


So now we’re back at El Terreno. It always feels like getting back to reality when I come home from the field. The goddamn truck needed a new fuel pump, I need to deal with the financial aid office and a bunch of other beaurocratic stuff at the school, groceries must be bought, and trash must be emptied. The cats finally started hunting and left me a rotting mouse, which was real nice to come home to. Ah, yes, this is the life!! J

I’m going to Carnavale this weekend so I should have some great photos to share with you. The next couple of weeks or so I’ll just be writing and getting ready to do my first interviews and surveys on a trip north. I’m excited to actually start data collection, and a little nervous too. Mostly I’m feeling the pressure of not having enough time or money to do everything I’d like to do! I’m very grateful though to have some good friends here and a great place to live. Tonight we’re going to watch movies with carne asada takeout from the best place in La Paz (says me). Hope you’re all enjoying the rain/snow/sun of your respective homes!!



fox poop haha











1 comment:

Jessica said...

Quite the trek! Poor Cali, the fresa.

When are you updating again!?!?